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Iriomote Jungle Adventures, just the name of the trip alone was tantalizing my imagination. Our location, dominated by the sounds of falling water, was akin to being enveloped in a verdant wrap of sub-tropical jungle. I’d made the journey to the island of Iriomote in the far flung South-West confines of Okinawa prefecture to lead, and introduce, a group of five budding landscape and wildlife photographers from the Okinawa Photographic and Video Community to the majestic wonders of the island. It’s a place of astonishing natural beauty and one that holds a very special place in my heart for photography.

Nameless waterfalls abound.

Iriomote is an enigma. With a landmass of some 284sq/km it remains the second largest island within the Okinawa prefecture, second only in size to the main island of Okinawa. Alas with no airport and a local population that hovers around 2,500 souls, predominantly subsistence farmers, it remains as one of the more pristine islands within the prefecture. A large part, in fact the majority, of the island having been declared a National Park with the ongoing application for it to be recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site yet to be finalized.

Mountainous peaks covered by almost impenetrable jungle spawn an intricate latticework of rivers and waterways across the island. So numerous are waterfalls that only those with a fall greater than 10m / 33ft are deemed suitable for naming. To that end it’s normal, almost a given, that small features such as this to the right remain nameless.

We’d headed out in the early morning to explore the jungle surrounding the Sangara Waterfall. I’d only previously ventured to the waterfall and was looking forward to seeing what lay beyond. Our plan of the day was to get to the falls, about a 50minute walk into the jungle and rest there for a couple of hours. Taking advantage of the early morning light for some long exposure photography before breaking new ground beyond the falls.

After the recent rains our progress was muddy, at best. Exposed tree roots caked in slippery mud and moss lay in ambush, awaiting careless footfall. Even the felt soled booties that most of us opted to wear had a hard time retaining grip. Every now and then a stumble, accompanied by whispered grunts and muted vocal protestations, would break the monotony of labored breathing and squelching steps. Little did we know at that time that our return journey would pit us against some of the Islands more infamous of wildlife critters!

We were like kids in a candy store, albeit slippery rock hopping kids. Compositions overwhelmed us. Some chose super wide angle shots with more than one camera sporting the Laowa 12mm f2.8 decked out with the custom adapter for that lens, the durable KANI Filter holder and a full array of 100mm drop in filters. Other prominent lenses were the Tamron SP 15-30mm f2.8 VC USD and the Rokinon 14mm f2.8. Given that our main objective was to capture the Milky Way arching above the Sangara Waterfall explained the presence of these renowned and, for the most, part highly respected lenses.

Reluctantly packing our bags and dragging ourselves away from the waterfall we set about pushing into the jungle. This would be new territory for me, and it didn’t disappoint. Very soon the canopy closed in on us. Waterways, home to numerous giant shrimp, frogs of all shapes, color and sizes as well as brightly colored dragonflies meandered through this green wonderland.

Iwasaki’s Snail Eating Snake posed nicely for the cameras.

We didn’t have to go far before encountering wildlife. As the sound of the waterfall faded the canopy roared into life with the constant scream of Cicadas. Every now and again a chorus of frogs would break out. Almost drone sounding Dragonflies flitted from rock to rock as we interrupted their rest.

Iriomote, like the majority of islands in Okinawa, also serves as home to a number of species of ‘Habu’ an infamous name given to venomous Pit Viper snakes of the area. Regional variations in the species suggested that the Habu known to populate the rolling green mountains and river gorges of Iriomote posed less of a threat than those found on Okinawa main island given its weaker strain of venom. I didn’t want to be the person to test that theory though! We also had one Japanese photographer as part of the group who stated quite categorically throughout the treks “I hate snakes and spiders” hmmm, welcome to Iriomote!

“Snake!”, the call hanging on the wind, I’m sure I saw the blood drain from Tanaka-sans face! Alas danger averted. Sitting perfectly in the undergrowth was the golden mottled scales of an Iwasaki Snail Eating Snake, pictured left. Posing for the camera we got our fill of this serpentine model and moved on. Further encounters with Frogs, Turtles and Tree Geckos gave us respite from landscape imaging. As the day wore on thoughts turned to the prospect of Astrophotography.

Ryukyu Tip Nose Frog, just one of many Amphibian encounters.

Working our way back towards Sangara Waterfall I noted the skies remained a solid block of grey cloud. I was beginning to think the evenings plan would be a bust. That said I’ve been a regular shooter of the Milky Way with a unique client photoshoot that I offer as part of my imaging services on Okinawa. I’ve seen clouds part, and close in, within a five minute timeframe. Shoots that looked doomed due to bad weather becoming some of the best nights of astro imaging I’ve experienced and vice-versa. Nights looking stellar quickly clouding over to render any plans useless. Would tonight grace us with such an outcome. “Never say never” to coin a phrase.

Getting back to the waterfall as the light started fading allowed people to get into place. Sunset was around 1920hrs so tripods were set and leveled, compositions and focus set. Now, about those clouds? Some folks decided on focus stacked imaging, taking a shot of the waterfall and vegetation over a series of images with differing focal points to eventually stack them to get fully sharp images from foreground through to the Milky Way, IF the stars decided to play. Optimism is always best with landscape and astrophotography.

As 2100hrs approached the very real possibility of calling the night off and planning for a return the following evening started to loom. But hold on, was that the feint twinkle of a star?

©EvolvedVisuals – The spectacle of the Milky Way arching over the impressive Sangara Waterfall captured beautifully in this focus stacked composite.

At first one, then two, then four, then more, and more. Clouds as if on command started to break up. I noted the glow of Jupiter, almost moon like in these dark skies. It was an astonishing moment from one minute to the next the skies simply drained their clouds as if a giant cloud eating vacuum cleaner had been switched on. Very soon, no trace of any clouds remained. We were literally basking under a carpet of stars, the clarity of which is seldom seen these days. Summing up the often muttered words in such a situation this truly imposed a sense of insignificance. Illustrated in this incredible shot by Armando Mantecon, aka Evolved Visuals on Instagram, one of the attending shooters clearly detailing the massive expanse of the Milky Way as a unique backdrop in this focus stacked composite image.

From that point onward we busied ourselves shooting all manner of compositions. Helping set tripods, tips on settings and compositions were given allowed those who needed the chance to get some great imagery. A collective sense of teamwork permeated the group. We coordinated with calls for shooting and adhered to a strict lighting policy as in keeping it to a minimum. All in all everyone came away with great images form this unique setting. More than that though a sense of collective accomplishment. To walk almost an hour along a boggy trail into thick jungle in the hope of snagging a photograph that requires the coordination of many aspects beyond our control takes some willpower.

But now at almost 0100hrs in the thick of night we had to find a way to extract ourselves from this incredible place. As by now the night belonged to the critters. Wild Pigs, Venomous Snakes, Mosquitos and Venomous Millipedes abound in Iriomote. Time to do suck it up and head back to the transport.

One of three different Habu Pit Vipers encountered during our exit walk from Sangara Waterfall. It pays to have a good headlamp and remain vigilant.

With an elevated presence of Frogs I made my way cautiously along the return path. It would be too easy to walk nonchalantly talking photography with the others in the group. Alas these forests were known to have elevated populations of Habu Pit Vipers, and I didn’t want to get bitten. It wasn’t long before we encountered our first one. Sitting in the middle of the path, far from any covering foliage, a large grey and brown zigzagged pattern snake with a profoundly diamond shaped head blocked our way. As if almost demanding a toll the Habu stood its ground. Even with cameras clicking and flashes flashing it remained unperturbed. Our Japanese friend stood well away from the proceedings, happy to have lots of snake loving snappers between him and this beautiful specimen.

Ushering the snake into the jungle we continued, albeit for another fifty meters. I saw a whole gaggle of Kajika Frogs, small (bite sized) yellow colored frogs by a small puddle of rain water on the trail. Looking intently at them, as one does, one doesn’t really take in the surroundings. It was only on the advise of another onlooker that I noted this incredibly colored Habu, above, sitting in the leaf litter. Ready to strike I slowly backed away and made safe distance between myself and it. Given these Kajika Frogs tend to figure high on the menu of most snake species I was surprised to only see the one Habu stalking them, and then there were two. Another, more slender and grey in color, Habu made its presence known as it slithered into view. This was turning out to be an incredible wildlife trip too!

To cap the night off a Ryukyu Green Tree Frog, far from the trees!

Setting off again through the jungle with eyes peeled we made our way deliberately and slowly along the path. Every now and again the air would become fragrant with the sweet aroma of the Sagari-bana plant. It bears a fragrance similar but maybe a little sweeter than Frangipangi flowers seen throughout Indonesia. Sagari-bana flowers are unique though insofar that they emerge only at night time. Spending the daylight hours wrapped as circular buds they emerge in the dark hours and infuse their sweet aroma onto the night breeze, way better than my sweat soaked tee-shirt for sure.

Emerging safe and sound from the jungle we wandered back to the transport. Spent after a days imaging our bodies drenched due to the almost insane level of humidity experienced in the jungle. And yet more surprises. As we approached the end of the dirt track that would spit us out onto the first tarmac we’d seen in hours we encountered a Ryukyu Green Tree Frog, left, albeit minus his tree!

Hobbling along the tarmac of the main road our transport came into sight. Resting weary bones for the five minute drive to our accommodation, the jungle is never far from you in Iriomote, and mentally preparing for what the next days of imaging would bring.

Cheers,
Mark.

PS: If you go to the top of the page and click that small circular icon with the opposing arrows you’ll get a better view of the Sangara Waterfall and cascades, the main focal point for the Milky Way shoot. Hit the Icon a second time to revert to standard Blog post view.