It’s often said that “Only a surfer knows the feeling” when it comes to getting what is called ‘Shacked’ inside the tube of a folding wave. The goal being to ride a surf board through the ever diminishing closing exit. Sadly as a surf photographer with no mobility to speak of I invariably take these waves on the head, albeit timed nicely so the descending lip of the wave doen’t hist me direct. I simply keep reminding myself that 3 cubed feet of seawater is equal to a ton in weight. Nothing like a little inspiration to keep oneself out of harms way.
That said I don’t always judge it as precisely as I should and take a trouncing. Good job I wear a protective helmet, in all sizes of waves. After all it’s not just waves I have to watch for, surfers, errant boards, the reef, and of course my camera housing if I do end up getting rolled around in the wet stuff. Just another day in the office so to speak.
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